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Glimpse of Jordan

0   The Dead Sea
Straddling the border between Israel and Jordan, the Dead Sea is the lowest spot on the Earth's surface. If you head there from Amman, don't nod off: The view as you descend from the hills toward the sea is quite striking. The mineral content of this 45 mi/75 km long and 6 mi/10 km wide saltwater lake tops out at 33%. The Dead Sea should be seen (and stepped into) at least once in every person's life  it's impossible to sink  but some mild words of caution are in order: Don't shave shortly before swimming (the high mineral content will leave you with an excruciatingly painful experience) and take some eyedrops along (getting even a tiny drop of the thick water in your eye is painful). Also try to make sure there are shower facilities or a freshwater stream in which to rinse off nearby  otherwise, the sea's minerals will leave an uncomfortable crust on your skin. Near the northern end of the Dead Sea in Suweimeh is a beach resort with a freshwater waterfall for rinsing. The tourist facilities on the Israeli side are superior to those on the Jordanian side, though the Jordanian facilities have improved in recent years and are considerably cheaper. At the southern end of the sea, not far south of Wadi Mujib, is the site identified as Lot's Cave, where the Biblical figure was said to have taken refuge after escaping from the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah. A Byzantine church built over the cave entrance has been excavated and is open to the public. The Dead Sea is 25 mi/40 km southwest of Amman.

Icon    Aqaba

This southern seaport town on the Gulf of Aqaba provides Jordan's only access to the sea. It's an ancient city: Solomon, the Queen of Sheba and Lawrence of Arabia are among Aqaba's past guests. Today's visitors go there for relatively inexpensive scuba diving (although better facilities are located in Eilat, Israel, and Dahab, Egypt, both of which can be reached fairly easily). Others can enjoy deep-sea fishing and snorkeling (the Gulf of Aqaba is noted for its abundance and variety of coral). Above all, it's the best spot in Jordan for beaches, relaxation and a picturesque desert landscape. Try Holiday Beach or Aquamarine, where troops of traditional Arab dancers sometimes perform on a pier jutting out over the water. Boat trips can be arranged to watch dolphin, flying fish and whale sharks in the Gulf of Aqaba. After spending time on the beach, visit the 12th-century fort and the port area, watch the fish in the aquariums at the Aqaba Marine Science Station and do a little shopping. Plan to visit in early spring or late fall - it's very hot in midsummer, while December-February it's a bit cool for the beach. A day trip from Aqaba to the Isle of Greye offers excellent swimming and snorkeling in the romantic setting of a ruined Crusader castle (be sure to take your water-sports equipment with you). Wadi Rum can also be visited from Aqaba

0    Irbid

This city (pop. 680,000) is located near the Al Himmeh hot springs. These natural baths, still used today, are a bit smelly, but the beautiful views of the Sea of Galilee help compensate for any unpleasantness. The city's Museum of Jordanian Heritage is a well-regarded archaeological museum, containing local artifacts dating back to the Bronze Age. About 20 mi/30 km northwest of town is the ancient city of Umm Qais, once a Greco-Roman center of culture and the arts. The highlight of Umm Qais is its small but fine museum, which contains ancient sculptures, friezes and sarcophagi, some quite impressive. The old city's ruins, which are not especially well preserved, include amphitheaters, mausoleums, baths and many columns. The whole area makes an interesting day trip from Amman. Irbid is 40 mi/70 km north of Amman.

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